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Since then it has changed beyond recognition, with twenty or more lodges of various shapes and sizes having been built in the intervening years.
East Nungwi is generally quieter, with a dozen or so guesthouses and lodges of various levels of quality strung out down the coast.
The two most upmarket are Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel and Essque Zalu Zanzibar, with Mnarani Beach Cottages and The Zanzibari Hotel being the best of the mid-price options.
West Nungwi is now a very busy mess of backpacker lodges, centred around a couple of reasonably cool but thumping beach bars where overlanders come to the party.
The best accommodation is the trendy Z Hotel, which may be worth considering if you positively want to be somewhere with a little bit of nightlife. To the south lies a string of largely Italian resorts.
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