Stonetown

Stonetown is the historical capital of Zanzibar island, a wonderful tumble town place of palaces, bazaars and markets, one of the most atmospheric and fascinating places on the whole Swahili Coast.

It used to be said that “when the flute played in Zanzibar the whole of Africa danced”. Certainly, for several centuries the sultans of this Arabic enclave held sway over huge tracts of the interior and dominated trade in silver, ivory and slaves.

Any visitor with even the slightest cultural or historic interests should try to spend some time here, preferably to overnight. But be aware, behind a thin tourist veneer, Stonetown remains a defiantly African place … colourful, vivid and exciting, but by turns also raw, brooding and oppressive.

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For intrepid travellers, the wonderfully chaotic 236 Hurumzi in the heart of the old town continues to define the Stonetown experience, with the nearby Swahili House offering a slightly more reliable but still pretty intense experience.

By contrast, the Zanzibar Serena out on the peninsular provides a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle outside, whilst Dhow Palace and Kisiwa House provide decent lower-cost alternatives.